February thru September we carry a mix of birds
that may include the breeds listed below. Here is
a schedule of which breeds are arriving this spring,
and when. Our birds are sexed (90% confidence) and
vaccinated for Marek's disease.*
AM = Ameraucan
BA = Black Austrolorp
BB = Buff Brahma
BO = Buff Orpington
BLH = Brown Leg Horn
BSL = Black Sex Link
BV = Barnevelder
DEL = Delaware
GSL = Gold Sex Link
JG = Jersey Giant
LB = Light Brahma
NN = Naked Neck
PBR = Plymouth Barred Rock
POL = Polish White Crested Black
*not sexed (ie, straight run)
RIR = Rhode Island Red
RLH = Red Leghorn
SFA = Salmon Faverolle
SLW = Silver Laced Wyandotte
SS = Speckled Sussex
WEL = Welsummer
Chicks and Pullets
We specialize in heirloom standard chickens and
particularly those breeds that exhibit our three
key characteristics: (1) good layer, (2) docile
temperment, and (3) hardy for northwest winters.
We sell chicks. The cost is $6.95
per bird regardless of breed. Our
chicks tend to be 0-4 weeks old. Please read the
Care of Baby Chicks section below.
Chickens start laying at about 4 or 5 months of
*Our chicks are generally handled and socialized.
All of our birds (except some rarer or ornamental
birds, e.g., Crested Polish, etc.) are sexed. Sexing
is about "90%." Thus, there is a 10% "margin
of error." Gold sex-linked and Black sex-linked
are birds where feather color denotes gender (both
of these breeds are derived from Rhode Island Reds
and exhibit similar egg production). Nearly
all of our birds are vaccinated against Marek's
disease, a ubiquitous disease carried by wild
birds and the no. 1 cause of death in chicks in
the Pacific NW.
If you are looking for a larger bird, we suggest posting on the Portland Backyard Chicken Listserve. It is a YahooGroup and the details are below.
Items we carry:
We carry a wide
range of chicken raising assessories including: organic
and conventional feed, scratch/oyster shells and other
supplements, feeders, waterers, heat lamps, bedding,
books, coop materials, and vitamins and medicines.
Care of Baby Chicks
Temperature: 90 degrees the first
week and then 5 degrees less each week, until 60 or
70 degrees and then they should not need supplemental
heat anymore. One 125 watt half-power heat lamp in a
utility reflector is sufficient. I you use a typical
250 W heat lamp, you will need a ceramic socket. Ventilation
is important also.
Floor space: provide ½-1 square foot per bird
for first four weeks. Two square foot per bird after
fours week. Birds often pick at each other if they do
not have sufficient space, fresh air, food or water,
or are too hot. Fresh grass clippings and/or clumps
of sod with grass may keep them busy and help eliminate
Sometimes in the first few weeks chicks tend to paste
up on their rear ends (ie, dried poop on their butts).
This needs to be removed. Use warm water and cloth orplace
their butt under a faucet with gentle warm water. Moisten
and dissolve the clump. This is less of a concern after
Litter/Bedding: do NOT use newspaper (alone) or anything
slick to raise chicks on because this may cause damage
to their legs. Shavings work well, particularly pine
and fir. Straw will work but can be slick for young
chicks and usually harder to clean. Be sure to clean
often and do not let chicks be on wet litter, it must
be kept dry.
Feed: use chick starter crumble (preferably with antibiotics)
for at lest 3 months from hatch. At month 3 or 4, layer
hen pellets can be gradually introduced into their food.
You may blend chick and layer food or buy a "developer"
feed for the 10-20 week old period. Also, provide some
grit, preferably in a separate container (though, in
most instances, chickens that are free-ranged at least
part of the day do not need supplemental grit). By 4
to 5 months, your girls should be on layer food. It
is recommended to provide oyster shells or some other
form of calcium (for example, your recycled crushed
up egg shells) to assist with egg shell development.
Water: always provide ample, fresh water to your birds.
Use appropriate waterers so that birds do not drown.
Do not use bowls or dishes. Raise waterers as he birds
grow. The lip of the waterer should be even with the
bird’s back. That way the waterers will stay cleaner
and it is easier for the birds to drink.
Feeders: like the waterers, raise the feeders as birds
grow. Hanging feeders and waterers reduce spoilage from
chickens stepping in the device.
Additional Info: be prepared before purchasing poultry.
More chicks are lost due to improper preparation such
as heat, litter, waterers, feeders and feed than from
disease. The area used for rearing should be free of
rodents, cats, dogs, etc. It is not suggested to raise
chicks together that are more than two or three weeks
apart in age. The older ones may pick the younger ones,
potentially to death. Use your good judgment if you
are try this. It is often not be a problem, though providing
sufficient space and heat minimizes problems.
Buy a book on home chicken raising, attend one of our
workshops (or someone else's), talk to friends (or strangers)
who have chickens, post questions on the backyard chicken
list serve (info below under community resources) and/or
search the web for information.
Good luck, have fun and take pictures (I think posting
pet chicken photos in the reason facebook was created)!
Can't say enough about this resource - great group of
knowledgeable, compassionate and helpful folks. To participate: click
here and follow the directions.
By the way, this is a great way to find a home for a
rooster, get answers to chicken health questions, find
someone to go in on a bantam order, etc.
This book is an excellent reference and first place
to start for non-emergency chicken health questions.
We have a reference copy at the store and you are welcome
to look at it at the store.
Vets - Who to call when there is a health crisis
Vet practices come and go. We suggest calling your local
vet and seeing who they would recommend. That said,
there is the Avian
Medical Center off Boones Ferry
in Lake Oswego and they may be able to help you or refer
you to someone closer to you. Let's hope you never have
to make that call. Good luck!
Google it/Youtube it/Wiki it
As we all know, there is a wealth of information out there on the internet. Have at it, though always consider the source and if it is
trustworthy and the information applicable to your situation.
are tough birds
Chickens are tough birds, and heal relatively well. In the case of flesh wounds, for example, raccoon or dog bites (without major bone damage),
they respond well to stitches (from you with needle and thread, not a Vet operation room) and
their skin grows back amazingly quickly. Probably a natural survival mechanism that evolved in their wild cousins. ... Yes, you can do it! And you can use the same over counter products you might use on human cuts.